THURSDAY: SO CLOSE BUT FARAWAY
Princes’ Islands
The Princes’ Islands are small islands of a larger archipelago set just off the Asian coast of Istanbul. While they are about a 90-minut e ferry ride from the European side, in essence they seem far more removed than that. The islands’ history spans from Byzantium (and probably earlier): sparsely inhabited and visited even less. The bare and detached hinterlands of a metropolitan Constantinople were ideal locations for the devout and, eventually, the alleged imperial threat, the immoral, and the corrupt. Each island had their own monasteries and convents, of which the imperial Palace would at times take advantage. Stories (some true) continue to be told today, of a vengeful prince or an insecure king banishing their kin from imperial splendour to the dark cell of an island monastery. In fact, this tradition continued well into the 20th century when one of the islands , Yassıada served as a prison. These stories, coupled with their natural beauty lent a mysterious romanticism to the islands that caught the eyes of 19th century crowds.
From then on, the islands’ popularity gave way to public ferries from the mainland, which in turn boosted a belle-epoque style tourism. Starting from the late 19th century the Princes’ Islands became an elite escape of summer entertainment, romance, and drama. Luxury hotels were built and welcomed international diplomats, socialites, novelists, and politicians for endless evenings; live music, caviar, and dancing! In fact, celebrations sometimes started before arrival, on the ferry itself. By the mid-1920s , ferries were serving crisp Bomonti beers, imported cognac or even large bottles of sparkling wine. Family homes, mansions and water-side villas – most of which still stand today – were built to host these summer residents. Over time, many of these structures were converted into private clubs, boutique hotels, and apartment buildings. Over the course of history, through religion, aristocracy, and even entertainment, each island has developed its own personality, customs, and mores. Which is the best? If you ask an islander, they’ll say their own. Today, you’ll be able to decide for yourself.